Sunday, June 14, 2009

Is winter season over in SWPA?




There's still ice at Upper Meadow.

If you don't mind it being a little detached.

Here's what's left of the Schoolyard climbs.
The warm weather sure has put a hurting on our local ice. The winter season has ended for most local tool swinging folks, but Laura and I have been making the most of the ice still left. The recent below freezing temps and snowfall has helped to prolong our climbing just a bit. We thought all hope was lost, but low and behold we squeezed in a few more days of winter climbing since my last post. We spent a few days at Lower Meadow Run in Ohiopyle. Up until yesterday most of the mixed lines were still climbable. Many of the lines are running with a lot of water. Anger Management was in great condition and offered great dry tooling up to the plastic ice at the finish. We managed to climb Season Finale via the direct ice start in the AM only to see most of it come down by afternoon. Yesterday was the last day we climbed. There may be a little left, but I wouldn't expect much. If you're like us and don't want to hang up the tools just yet, get dry tooling. We've got plenty of great choss climbing around to keep your forearms pumped until next season.






Friday, June 12, 2009

Argonaut Peak



The climbing season would not be complete without a trip to the Stuart Range. It was hot out, so the icy water in Ingalls Creek felt pretty good. We camped right beside the creek.






The group breaking out above the tree line.






There was snow and running water on the south side.






We went most of the way up the south side together, then split up and assaulted the summit from different routes.






Jason starting up the NW Arete.



Part of our group on the summit.






Mark and Nicholas.
Mt. Stuart in the background.




Dave and Andrew
















Doug and Jason




Kyle




Thursday, June 11, 2009

After Christmas climbing

I ended up climbing the day after Christmas. I was supposed to work, but in the A.M. I started receiving calls from everyone that they were going climbing. I couldn't resist... I packed my gear and set off to go climbing. We had a great day. It was 14 degrees very windy and snowing. I'll give a quick recap of the days events and throw in a few photos. Mike Royer had an exciting day with an inverted lead fall on the pillar right of G-Gully. No injuries and in good fashion, he got collected, went up and finished the climb. Joel Toretti got on an impressive line to the left of Called on Account of Security. Here's some photos of Joel in action.




Joel starting up his new line, Check out the early season formations





Joel mid route (climbing, loving life, sheltered from the wind)

photog. freezing my ass off, not climbing, so I could take pics of Joel!





Hollow ice underneath?
I wasn't there 5 min until Joel started trash talking, so I had to finishThe Awakening WI5 for him. The route is currently in good condition with some delicate hooks near the top on marginal screws. The rest of our crew enjoyed some top rope action on various other lines. Chip Kamin's son Jason was in town for the holidays and got to enjoy some great on ice action with his dad.




What a great way to spend Christmas in SWPA.





Jason top roping Final Obligation WI5
On a final note, After posting a pic of Joel climbing on NEice, I received a call from Ian out in Montana saying that the gems he's been seeking are in some serious avalanche danger zones and that we've got it good back here in the east. I have to agree Ian and for your enjoyment heres the good stuff in its current condition. Hope to see you and Josh this winter!






Mmmmmmm quality mixed!

Saturday, June 6, 2009

The Pashley Princess as Winter Bike

In several posts now I have expressed my frustrations with winter cycling and my disappointment over not riding as much as I did during warmer months. But today I realised that winter is more than halfway through already, and I have been cycling all along. Not as much as in the Summer and Fall, but cycling none the less. So it's not so bad, really. Not because I am becoming more brave or skillful, but simply because it doesn't snow all the time and the temperature isn't always below 30°F. On some days it is even enjoyable again.

Since mid December I have been riding my Pashley Princess exclusively. Initially I considered getting a "beater bike" for the winter, but came to the conclusion that I should just stick with the Pashley. It was definitely the right decision.

I don't need a winter bike, because the Pashley Princess Sovereign is a winter bike. For one thing, everything on it was designed to withstand the elements: The fenders, internal gear hub, fully enclosed chaincase, enclosed hub brakes, dynamo-powered lighting, extremely durable powdercoat and rustproof components make her essentially a zero-maintenance bike in winter weather conditions. I know that some feel the Princess is "too pretty" to ride in the winter, but the prettiness in no way detracts from her toughness and utility. It simply does not make sense to get a sub-par winter bike because you think your bicycle is too attractive to be used the way it was designed to be used.

The other major benefit or riding a Pashley Princess in winter, is its incredible stability and indifference to weather conditions. I had noted this several times when riding in the rain, and it is also true in slushy winter weather. I am trying to put my finger on what feels so good about this bike in bad weather. It is probably the combination of the heavy frame, stable handling, wide tires and enclosed brakes that makes it feel just so wonderfully stable where other bikes don't. I can ride this bike through a flooded road and corner at close to normal speed, and it will behave the same as on a dry road. It's pretty amazing and certainly helps in winter, when there is either slush or lake-like puddles from melted snow everywhere.

Pashley's platform pedals interact well with all of my winter boots and I have not had to worry about slipping.

And my trusty Carradice Barley saddlebag has proven itself to be completely rain and snow proof even in the nastiest weather. All in all, I cannot think of a nicer winter setup: I simply ride the Pashley and don't worry about a thing other than watching out for sudden chunks of hard snow on the road.

Speaking of obstacles on the road, here is a stunner I experienced cycling home at dusk yesterday. On one of the side streets near my house the asphalt cracked so much that it formed a "step" in the middle of the road, with 8+ inches of elevation change. If you are coming from the direction this picture was taken, you can see the rise as you approach. But coming from the opposite direction (as I was last night) you really cannot see the drop that awaits you; it just looks like a regular crack. So I basically launched my Pashley into the air by riding straight over this crater at full speed. I am glad to report that the bike handled it fine. It landed hard, but was very stable, and just kept going as if nothing happened. I did stop to check the tires and rims afterward (as well as take some pictures, in disbelief that such a thing could have formed right in the middle of the road overnight), and everything is perfectly fine. I wonder how other bikes would have fared under the same conditions.

Having ridden the Pashley Princess in both warm months and cold, I can say that she is really at her best in poor weather conditions. I can think of few other bikes that are so well suited for the title of "winter bike". And if she is beautiful to boot? Well, I won't hold that against her!

Wednesday, June 3, 2009

Cape Blanco

Monday, September 27, .. - - Cape Blanco State Park, eight miles northwest of Port Orford, Oregon.

Looking South from the top of the bluff.
This is why it is called Cape Blanco. As I drove up to the park, the sky changed from a beautiful blue to white and the temperature dropped eight degrees.

Within two hours the fog completely blanketed the area...

Tuesday, June 2, 2009

Where is Spring?


We had a couple of warm days so I have the erge to plant some seeds. I know it is way to early. But I did pick up a handfull of morning glory seeds at the store anyway. Altho it is warm I am sure it will turn cold again. March always had to throw another storm or two at us before it will allow Spring to arrive. My roses are starting to think about putting on leaves, and the flower buds on the trees are getting bigger each day. It will be so good to see green leaves on all the trees, and srubs, and plants again. In the mean time it is clouding up again. I guess it was just the barest of hints of the spring weather to come.

Monday, June 1, 2009

Anastasia Island :: Hanging Out

Monday March 14, .. – - Today was a “leisure day” for me. After breakfast and straightening up the van a little I spent a few hours on the beach at Anastasia Island State Park in St. Augustine. Soaking up the beautiful sunshine...











Yeah, it was nice!